frequent and

Tee Shirts

2010-08-13T08:45:00.000-07:00

Thinking about doing some tee shirts

Black Shirt

White Shirt

I'm not sure but I think the road to hell is paved with tee shirt sales...

Another board from the rafters post

2010-03-24T07:28:00.000-07:00

Honoring Dick Brewer

This board was my favorite for years!

The "Brewer Fins" were designed to be thicker so a layer of wood was laminated on each side.

I also think it was faster to build up the panel, it floated (somewhat) and it looked cool!

Cut laps, tints and pin lines, from back in the good old days!

I always liked the pin tail with wings!

The tight corners made the wings tough to shape, glass and sand.

The surf leash demolished what material was left and this board

needs fill work on both sides to repair the damage.

Classic beak nose with plenty of foam.

Rocker?
You want rocker?
You can't handle no stinking rocker!
(wow two old movie references in one sentence!)

Bad photo angle makes the board look nine feet long.

And I should have cleaned it up first

And my lawn looks like crap!

That little decal up from the leash plug says "Shaped by Joe Blair"

6'7" - 14 nose - 19 wide - 13 tail with the wide point one inch up from the center 3.25 thick

These were classic dimensions at the time, and since Brewer shaped a lot of the Clark blank plugs everyone shaped similar dimensions.

A friend brought this T-shirt back from the islands for me.

"The finest hand crafted precision surfboards in the world"

Brewer's list of innovations is too numerous to mention and the list of shapers who followed in his footsteps is longer still.

In the sixties and seventies, Brewer was "THE MAN" to get a board from when you hit the islands.

For a lot of people he still is.

Check out this shot I poached from the Nebulous Continuum blog

When it's big in the islands, people are still going for their Brewer's.

Boards from the rafters

2010-03-08T08:57:00.000-08:00

Since this site is getting more hits lately I thought I should but up some relatively new content up

See my other blog 23Breaths too.

Todays post is about one of my favorite tri-fins.

I brought it used after I got tired of going over the falls on a too thin, too short slipper.

(or maybe I needed to paddle more)

AC Blue 6-7 11.35 19.25 13.75 2.55 4.75 2.15 11.25 3.25
(Rusty is good about giving you the dims)

My 80's trifin - a really fun board

Love the 80's day glow lam!
Not quite as narrow as it looks in the picture above.

Thick enough to catch waves, made before the glass sliver mentality took over.

The bottom has seen some action.

One fin was busted off and reattached

The tail bump was the rage,

look for it where the wood below the board intersects the rail line

Day glow nose guard to match the lam

Bought this one used (like most of my boards) so I can't claim credit

It was a time of BIG lams

This replaced my Brewer as the "go to" board when it was good.
As soon as I win the Lotto I'm going to ask Mr. Rusty to please shape me several more!
These boards have gotten popular again because
"they are fun to ride"
I know not everyone is going to ride a mat but
eventually the mega surfboard suppliers should consider
producing boards that average surfer can ride in average
conditions and have fun.
I know I'm a marketing GENIUS!
(since I posted this the first time the pendulum does seem to be swinging that way)
On the other hand, a lot of back yard shapers and
small volume custom shapers probably make their livings
making boards a little longer, wider and thicker
than the slippers I see at Jack's and the other
big box, surf superstores stores.
And that's a good thing.
Support your local shaper / glasser!

23 Breaths!

2010-02-23T08:53:00.001-08:00

Check out my other surf site

23 Breaths

What for dinner?

2010-01-25T07:59:00.001-08:00

Not too many surf dinner posts lately

Here is my wifes latest creation

Kind of a variation on the lasagna theme.

Goes well with a glass of the red!

After dinner how about a little Greenough?

Raisin bran muffins

2009-11-17T05:33:00.000-08:00

... seated at the table in the laboratory of the utility muffin
Research kitchen... reaching for an over sized chrome spoon he gathers an
Intimate quantity of dried muffin remnants and brushing his scapular aside
Proceeds to dump these inside of his shirt...
He turns to us and speaks:

This weekend I made a batch of muffins.

God I miss Frank Zappa!

This version is from October 28, 1977

Following are the complete lyrics, but you need to hear Mr. Zappa do it!

Of course, the guitar solo is unreal!

The muffin man is seated at the table in the laboratory of the utility muffin
Research kitchen... reaching for an over sized chrome spoon he gathers an
Intimate quantity of dried muffin remnants and brushing his scapular aside
Proceeds to dump these inside of his shirt...
He turns to us and speaks:

Some people like cupcakes better. I for one care less for them!

Arrogantly twisting the sterile canvas snoot of a fully charged icing
Anointment utensil he poots forths a quarter-ounce green rosette (oh ah yuk
Yuk... lets try that again...!) he poots forth a quarter-ounce green rosette
Near the summit of a dense but radiant muffin of his own design.
Later he says:

Some people... some people like cupcakes exclusively, while myself, I say
There is naught nor ought there be nothing so exalted on the face of gods grey
Earth as that prince of foods... the muffin!

Girl you thought he was a man
But he was a muffin
He hung around till you found
That he didn't know nuthin

Girl you thought he was a man
But he only was a-puffin
No cries is heard in the night
As a result of him stuffin

Mushroom Spinich Quiche

2009-10-13T06:58:00.000-07:00

So I'm thinking of changing the name of the blog to

"What Bruce had for dinner"

Pizza Night

2009-10-04T07:45:00.000-07:00

The dough mixture is just slightly different than the bread from the post above.

Besides I like throwing the dough in the air!

The local produce market had fresh mushrooms and bell peppers.

So that was what we had.

Alas the olives were from a can.

Ring - of - Scones

Thanks to Head High & Glassy for the best Lew Welsh story ever!

You may wonder why

But this is the price you pay

to get up early to check the surf

Daily Bread

2009-09-13T19:15:00.000-07:00

3 cups of water - no not salt water, salt does come later

7 tsps of yeast - yeh, I got nothin for this one

some sugar / honey - "some" is a highly regarded baking measurement ask grandma

7 cups of flower - no 7 cups with wild flowers in them doesn't work

4 tsps of salt - yes use sea salt

OK lets begin,

In a large bowl combine the water sugar and yeast.

(Just like Julia!)

I like to let the yeast and sugar get to know each other before

I add the first half of the flower

add the flower

a hundred stirs should do it

If you have a nice thick mud consistency you're good

(This is my magical stirring spoon that does the work

for me)

I have moved the mixture to a bigger bowl.

(Not really, I have photo shopped a new skin on the bowl to match the magical bamboo stirring spoon)

This mixture is going to double in size so you need room to grow.

Dumped the mixture on a flowered bread

board and getting ready to kneed.

Mid knead, kind of looks like that thing that attacks

Mr. Spock in one of the early Star Trek episodes.

Kneaded and ready to rise.

(If I did this daily, I would shave my hands up to my elbows. The dough sticks to the hairs and is hard to get off. Actually, I only surf to get the dough off my hands)

The kneaded ball of dough resting in a bowl and getting

ready to rise.

(I'm told you could wrap the dough in plastic wrap and leave it in the refrigerator over night for an extra thrill)

Let the rising begin!

The dough has risen and needs to be punched down.

After the punching the dough has risen again!

Is there no stopping it???

(No, not until the yeast has consumed all the sugars)

Dough divided, shaped into protozoans and ready for the oven.

(But sadly not the house)

You cut gills in the top of the bread to let it breath under water or to let steam escape during the baking.

Out of the oven!

Where is the butter?

Peanut butter and Jelly?

Just give me some

Made garlic bread out of half the batch to go with tonight's pasta.

I have two hands I get two wine glasses.

Dems the rules!

This makes perfect sense to me.

Why are you staring?

BTW, That's not a knife it's a rasp thingy to grate the Parmesan.

(If you use it to finish the rails on your new board with it, your spouse

WILL NOT be understanding even though it looks exactly like

a surfoam and I cleaned off most of the foam dust)

So why have a blog post on bread making on a surf related site?

Good question.

I have no idea.

But Kaser's got nothin on this at Daily Bread

Almond Surfboards and Designs

2009-03-19T10:21:00.000-07:00

A quick shout out to the new surf shop in town.

Almond Surfboards and Designs

367 Old Newport Blvd

Newport Beach, CA

They have a really nice blend of long and short boards.

Check out the woodwork on the fins, it's outstanding.

So stop by and help support some local craftsmen.

Click here to visit their website.

Enjoy the links

2009-03-09T09:41:00.000-07:00

but most of my writing is over at 23Breaths

Azzing the Lass

2009-02-25T06:13:00.000-08:00

A new film by those master minds who brought you Invation from Planet C

Looks like the opening shot shows stoke miners

Arrr Blast it matey

Displacement

2009-02-10T12:08:00.000-08:00

If you liked the Displacement article in the latest Surfers Journal

You may like this as well

It has been one of those years

2009-02-06T06:18:00.000-08:00

In my neck of the woods winter's come in two general varieties

A regulation winter with rain wind and swell,

usually at the same time

and what we are having this year

Great conditions

lite off shore winds

and no swell to speak of.

Photo from surfresearch

It happens.

It has been a nice summer and fall

So I shouldn't complain

but I do.

It's the price we pay for living in the OC.

The truth be know for winter fun one needs to travel a bit

either north or south

either one works*

This place looks like it has potential.

Photo by Woody Woodworth

*Not that I would know as I never travel more than 5 miles from the house.

PS quick weather report for the OC

After a brief break for the morning the rain should return for the rest of the day and on into parts of Saturday

yea!

A rare clip

2009-01-29T18:43:00.000-08:00

An early Greenough movie for your enjoyment

Malibu part deux

2009-01-27T06:02:00.000-08:00

During the last flat spell...

The surf was limping in then hitting a sandbar just off shore.

So desperate I took a board!
If it was your turn, the takeoff was uneventful and preceded a dribbey little section.
This is the “outside” part of the wave about 15 feet off the beach.

The wave slowly got bigger as you went.

Mind surfing when you are really surfing
If you were 7 inches tall and had a fish this was the first interesting section.

A little bit farther down the line trying to achieve perfect trim and maintain speed

Hit by a lazer blast from the beach and stayed frozen in this position for the rest of the day
(kids beware this is what happens when you get old)

Coming into “Outside-in-the-Middles”

The 7 inch guy could be doing a nice roll-a-coaster right here.
Pretty water here since it's so shallow.
On a lot of these waves I would get distracted watching shadows on the bottom.

So close to shore that backwash hits the wave and ruins it for a while.

This part was the “Dangerous Part”.
Hands coming up into a defensive position to deflect oranges thrown by the point troll (standing on the beach 10 feet away)

Inside In-the-Middles and heading for the next section inside

Made it to safety and celebrating the end of aerial attacks by bending the knees

Inside and close to the end

A fun, interesting, and challenging wave.
Using only glide and no turns you had to maximize your trim (o'school) through the flatter sections to be able to surf the whole wave.
It looks like I am carrying a tray.

I got hurt that day.
It's always the small days that get you!
I had to take the fin out of this board to get it in and out of the car.
I was trying to move the fin up and heard something pop in my chest.

The next day I thought the mat would be ideal to glide through the flats on the way to steeper sections to see if I could still ride the mat.

Those are my Ugg prints on the left. Returning with Duck Feet on the right

The wind was more offshore and the mix of little threads of swell had changed again.

I would try to move way up on the mat and lift my legs to minimize any drag and zip through to the next section

Right after the cutback, reengaging my inside fin to cutback before sliding Lala style through outside In-the-Middles

If you blow this up I look like Kenny

A windier day
I wore my hood
but this one was glassy

(Ok, no more Haiku this post)

Not as good (or as long) this day but a least it was overhead.

Dragging my inside arm to try to stall in case the inside section pitches (I'm delusional, I know)

The wind came up and made it a little hollower (very little), still dragging my arm

Still delusional

All photos courtesy of http://dalybread.blogspot.com

Velo

2009-01-23T06:38:00.000-08:00

I found this on the Grass is Greener Project and it's incredible

The narration alone is classic

49 seconds in, the quote "lets sort of move it now with Georgey" just swings man.

Too groovy for words really

Not "Intermost Limits of Pure Fun", maybe out takes from "Childred in the Sun"?

Anyone have a guess?

Great shots comparing and contrasting what Greenough was doing on Velo with the surfers of the period.

This is what really started the short board revolution.

Surfers saw Greenough and said "I want to do that!!"

The rest is history.

If you want to make a flex spoon the first 15 seconds are priceless!

Hopeful Hearts Club

2009-01-21T14:51:00.000-08:00

Inaugural Address

By President Barack Hussein Obama

My fellow citizens: I stand here today humbled by the task before us, grateful for the trust you've bestowed, mindful of the sacrifices borne by our ancestors.

I thank President Bush for his service to our nation -- (applause) -- as well as the generosity and cooperation he has shown throughout this transition.

Forty-four Americans have now taken the presidential oath. The words have been spoken during rising tides of prosperity and the still waters of peace. Yet, every so often, the oath is taken amidst gathering clouds and raging storms. At these moments, America has carried on not simply because of the skill or vision of those in high office, but because we, the people, have remained faithful to the ideals of our forebears and true to our founding documents.

So it has been; so it must be with this generation of Americans.

That we are in the midst of crisis is now well understood. Our nation is at war against a far-reaching network of violence and hatred. Our economy is badly weakened, a consequence of greed and irresponsibility on the part of some, but also our collective failure to make hard choices and prepare the nation for a new age. Homes have been lost, jobs shed, businesses shuttered. Our health care is too costly, our schools fail too many -- and each day brings further evidence that the ways we use energy strengthen our adversaries and threaten our planet.

These are the indicators of crisis, subject to data and statistics. Less measurable, but no less profound, is a sapping of confidence across our land; a nagging fear that America's decline is inevitable, that the next generation must lower its sights.

Today I say to you that the challenges we face are real. They are serious and they are many. They will not be met easily or in a short span of time. But know this America: They will be met. (Applause.)

On this day, we gather because we have chosen hope over fear, unity of purpose over conflict and discord. On this day, we come to proclaim an end to the petty grievances and false promises, the recriminations and worn-out dogmas that for far too long have strangled our politics. We remain a young nation. But in the words of Scripture, the time has come to set aside childish things. The time has come to reaffirm our enduring spirit; to choose our better history; to carry forward that precious gift, that noble idea passed on from generation to generation: the God-given promise that all are equal, all are free, and all deserve a chance to pursue their full measure of happiness. (Applause.)

In reaffirming the greatness of our nation we understand that greatness is never a given. It must be earned. Our journey has never been one of short-cuts or settling for less. It has not been the path for the faint-hearted, for those that prefer leisure over work, or seek only the pleasures of riches and fame. Rather, it has been the risk-takers, the doers, the makers of things -- some celebrated, but more often men and women obscure in their labor -- who have carried us up the long rugged path towards prosperity and freedom.

For us, they packed up their few worldly possessions and traveled across oceans in search of a new life. For us, they toiled in sweatshops, and settled the West, endured the lash of the whip, and plowed the hard earth. For us, they fought and died in places like Concord and Gettysburg, Normandy and Khe Sahn.

Time and again these men and women struggled and sacrificed and worked till their hands were raw so that we might live a better life. They saw America as bigger than the sum of our individual ambitions, greater than all the differences of birth or wealth or faction.

This is the journey we continue today. We remain the most prosperous, powerful nation on Earth. Our workers are no less productive than when this crisis began. Our minds are no less inventive, our goods and services no less needed than they were last week, or last month, or last year. Our capacity remains undiminished. But our time of standing pat, of protecting narrow interests and putting off unpleasant decisions -- that time has surely passed. Starting today, we must pick ourselves up, dust ourselves off, and begin again the work of remaking America. (Applause.)

For everywhere we look, there is work to be done. The state of our economy calls for action, bold and swift. And we will act, not only to create new jobs, but to lay a new foundation for growth. We will build the roads and bridges, the electric grids and digital lines that feed our commerce and bind us together. We'll restore science to its rightful place, and wield technology's wonders to raise health care's quality and lower its cost. We will harness the sun and the winds and the soil to fuel our cars and run our factories. And we will transform our schools and colleges and universities to meet the demands of a new age. All this we can do. All this we will do.

Now, there are some who question the scale of our ambitions, who suggest that our system cannot tolerate too many big plans. Their memories are short, for they have forgotten what this country has already done, what free men and women can achieve when imagination is joined to common purpose, and necessity to courage. What the cynics fail to understand is that the ground has shifted beneath them, that the stale political arguments that have consumed us for so long no longer apply.

The question we ask today is not whether our government is too big or too small, but whether it works -- whether it helps families find jobs at a decent wage, care they can afford, a retirement that is dignified. Where the answer is yes, we intend to move forward. Where the answer is no, programs will end. And those of us who manage the public's dollars will be held to account, to spend wisely, reform bad habits, and do our business in the light of day, because only then can we restore the vital trust between a people and their government.

Nor is the question before us whether the market is a force for good or ill. Its power to generate wealth and expand freedom is unmatched. But this crisis has reminded us that without a watchful eye, the market can spin out of control. The nation cannot prosper long when it favors only the prosperous. The success of our economy has always depended not just on the size of our gross domestic product, but on the reach of our prosperity, on the ability to extend opportunity to every willing heart -- not out of charity, but because it is the surest route to our common good. (Applause.)

As for our common defense, we reject as false the choice between our safety and our ideals. Our Founding Fathers -- (applause) -- our Founding Fathers, faced with perils that we can scarcely imagine, drafted a charter to assure the rule of law and the rights of man -- a charter expanded by the blood of generations. Those ideals still light the world, and we will not give them up for expedience sake. (Applause.)

And so, to all the other peoples and governments who are watching today, from the grandest capitals to the small village where my father was born, know that America is a friend of each nation, and every man, woman and child who seeks a future of peace and dignity. And we are ready to lead once more. (Applause.)

Recall that earlier generations faced down fascism and communism not just with missiles and tanks, but with the sturdy alliances and enduring convictions. They understood that our power alone cannot protect us, nor does it entitle us to do as we please. Instead they knew that our power grows through its prudent use; our security emanates from the justness of our cause, the force of our example, the tempering qualities of humility and restraint.

We are the keepers of this legacy. Guided by these principles once more we can meet those new threats that demand even greater effort, even greater cooperation and understanding between nations. We will begin to responsibly leave Iraq to its people and forge a hard-earned peace in Afghanistan. With old friends and former foes, we'll work tirelessly to lessen the nuclear threat, and roll back the specter of a warming planet.

We will not apologize for our way of life, nor will we waver in its defense. And for those who seek to advance their aims by inducing terror and slaughtering innocents, we say to you now that our spirit is stronger and cannot be broken -- you cannot outlast us, and we will defeat you. (Applause.)

For we know that our patchwork heritage is a strength, not a weakness. We are a nation of Christians and Muslims, Jews and Hindus, and non-believers. We are shaped by every language and culture, drawn from every end of this Earth; and because we have tasted the bitter swill of civil war and segregation, and emerged from that dark chapter stronger and more united, we cannot help but believe that the old hatreds shall someday pass; that the lines of tribe shall soon dissolve; that as the world grows smaller, our common humanity shall reveal itself; and that America must play its role in ushering in a new era of peace.

To the Muslim world, we seek a new way forward, based on mutual interest and mutual respect. To those leaders around the globe who seek to sow conflict, or blame their society's ills on the West, know that your people will judge you on what you can build, not what you destroy. (Applause.)

To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent, know that you are on the wrong side of history, but that we will extend a hand if you are willing to unclench your fist. (Applause.)

To the people of poor nations, we pledge to work alongside you to make your farms flourish and let clean waters flow; to nourish starved bodies and feed hungry minds. And to those nations like ours that enjoy relative plenty, we say we can no longer afford indifference to the suffering outside our borders, nor can we consume the world's resources without regard to effect. For the world has changed, and we must change with it.

As we consider the role that unfolds before us, we remember with humble gratitude those brave Americans who at this very hour patrol far-off deserts and distant mountains. They have something to tell us, just as the fallen heroes who lie in Arlington whisper through the ages.

We honor them not only because they are the guardians of our liberty, but because they embody the spirit of service -- a willingness to find meaning in something greater than themselves.

And yet at this moment, a moment that will define a generation, it is precisely this spirit that must inhabit us all. For as much as government can do, and must do, it is ultimately the faith and determination of the American people upon which this nation relies. It is the kindness to take in a stranger when the levees break, the selflessness of workers who would rather cut their hours than see a friend lose their job which sees us through our darkest hours. It is the firefighter's courage to storm a stairway filled with smoke, but also a parent's willingness to nurture a child that finally decides our fate.

Our challenges may be new. The instruments with which we meet them may be new. But those values upon which our success depends -- honesty and hard work, courage and fair play, tolerance and curiosity, loyalty and patriotism -- these things are old. These things are true. They have been the quiet force of progress throughout our history.

What is demanded, then, is a return to these truths. What is required of us now is a new era of responsibility -- a recognition on the part of every American that we have duties to ourselves, our nation and the world; duties that we do not grudgingly accept, but rather seize gladly, firm in the knowledge that there is nothing so satisfying to the spirit, so defining of our character than giving our all to a difficult task.

This is the price and the promise of citizenship. This is the source of our confidence -- the knowledge that God calls on us to shape an uncertain destiny. This is the meaning of our liberty and our creed, why men and women and children of every race and every faith can join in celebration across this magnificent mall; and why a man whose father less than 60 years ago might not have been served in a local restaurant can now stand before you to take a most sacred oath. (Applause.)

So let us mark this day with remembrance of who we are and how far we have traveled. In the year of America's birth, in the coldest of months, a small band of patriots huddled by dying campfires on the shores of an icy river. The capital was abandoned. The enemy was advancing. The snow was stained with blood. At the moment when the outcome of our revolution was most in doubt, the father of our nation ordered these words to be read to the people:

"Let it be told to the future world...that in the depth of winter, when nothing but hope and virtue could survive... that the city and the country, alarmed at one common danger, came forth to meet [it]."

America: In the face of our common dangers, in this winter of our hardship, let us remember these timeless words. With hope and virtue, let us brave once more the icy currents, and endure what storms may come. Let it be said by our children's children that when we were tested we refused to let this journey end, that we did not turn back nor did we falter; and with eyes fixed on the horizon and God's grace upon us, we carried forth that great gift of freedom and delivered it safely to future generations.

Thank you. God bless you. And God bless the United States of America. (Applause.)

We have a president that goes to town and body surfs a few!

I have hope.

Bible of the Sport

2009-01-19T05:54:00.000-08:00

I was at my local bookstore over the weekend and browsed a copy of one of the major Surf magazines.

I should say Action Sports Retailer catalogs.

That would be a more appropriate description.

To be fair I am no longer in the demographic they target.

I don't need anymore tee shirts, my quiver is full, I have a phone and I definately don't want to join the Army.

But it is more than that

I am a reader

From soup cans to encyclopedias

When my older brother brought home the early bi-monthly issues of Surfer I was all over it.

So even though I didn't surf I have been reading the mags for a while.

When John Severson started The Surfer it was a collection of still shots printed up and sold at his movies.

By the time the magazine hit the shelves a few years later it contained an interesting combination of text and black and white photos.

Back in the early days you could send in your parents shot of you surfing blown out Tin Can beach and if there was room that issue it might get published!

John surfed came in and wrote, edited and published Surfer.

Along with the movies, for a while.

New people came in to help with the work load but it seemed they stayed true to the "surf and then write about what it meant to them as individuals" approach.

In short it had soul.

Fast forward to today.

There have been some changes.

er and ing are just two properties in a stable of action sport publications.

It's all about revenue baby, revenue.

But hey it's a business, it's run like one and I wish them all the best in these difficult economic times of decreasing ad revenues.

And I am certainly not saying there aren't a bunch of stoked surfers working at Primedia.

It is, after all a dream job for a surfer,

right after shaping and glassing.

But things have changed,

as they always do.

Now the "new testament of the sport" is being written by bloggers world wide.

With a click of a mouse I can visit the websites of literally hundreds of stoked surfers who still have water draining out of their noses. Typing up musings on todays session and including pictures too!

So if you haven't already, drink the Kool Aid, start a blog and let's see what you have to contribute.

It's a great time to be alive!

PS

John Severson is still surfing and producing beautiful art work.

See it at surfer art

PPS

I have enormous respect for the Surfer's Journal and Surfer's Path publications along with all the others that have keep the stoke alive!

Ether Daily

2009-01-13T06:27:00.001-08:00

Photo poached from Ether Daily

Andrew Kidman has started a blog and it is nothing short of fantastic!

The pictures and text are what you would expect from Mr Kidman

"PHOTOGRAPHS, STORIES, INTERVIEWS AND INSPIRED MATERIAL FROM THE MAKING OF ETHER"

Check it out here!

The Cold

2009-01-08T16:03:00.000-08:00

"Take long walks in stormy weather or through deep snows in the fields and wood, if you would keep your spirits up. Deal with brute nature. Be cold and hungry and weary."

Henry David Thoreau

It's winter time in the northern hemisphere.

Even though I live in sunny SoCal winter sea temps are in the mid 50's and when you add the wind chill factor for me its a tad chilly.

You when you look at the conditions Ras and Eric deal with on a regular basis I am the first to admit I have it easy and warm.

But the point is we all have a relationship with the cold.

What's yours?

Do you ignore it? Hide from it? Complain? Joke about it?

It doesn't seem to matter how cold. It's relative cold. If it was 20 degrees out I wouldn't leave the house. But in the same temperature Ras and Eric would be skipping to the beach in shorts.

(OK maybe skipping is an over dramatization but you get the idea)

The point being that it is all in your head.

One of very few things you actually have some control of (exercising that control is another thing).

Think about that the next time you are in the parking lot putting on a damp full suit and wet smelly booties.

But I am still looking into a Patagonia wetsuit for next year.

PS I never go anywhere without my hood

Davy Graham - Cry Me A River

2008-12-23T07:48:00.000-08:00

Davey Graham passed away recently.

If you haven't heard of him or his music, take a listen.

Waiting for more rain here in SoCal

This track seemed appropriate

Seasoned Greetings

2008-12-18T08:40:00.000-08:00

I spent some thyme (see title) changing over the blog links I had to the kind that shows you a little of the last post.

The list also is set to sort by last post date/time,
so the new stuff is on top.

I had to do all this manually so I am sure I left off something.

Let me know if I did and I will add it.

I am not doing a ton of posting here but I wanted to have a place to just check links and I am too lazy to subscribe to the RSS feed. (really, this is what is happening with the page)

SurftheBlogs does the same thing but this is a smaller (although ever growing)list.

Wolfgang Bloch at Surf Gallery in Laguna Beach

2008-12-17T07:09:00.000-08:00

I saw over at Ryan Tatar blog

That Wolfgang Bloch is doing a book signing on Friday

Works of other artist's will be available.

It's the holiday season after all.

Standard Laguna art gallery stuff really.

But I want to talk about Bloch's work more than the event

It's different

I have glanced at a couple of his paintings

never LOOKED at them so I still don't know anything

I think looking at his work (and most others) over the internet

you really don't get enough input.

If I tried to describe his work

I would have to say that two fields come together

very dramatically

and there is a surprise

a wave.

So I may go.

Friday on the last Friday before Xmas is no time to go anywhere

so maybe not.

the show runs 6-10 or something like that so maybe I'll go around 3

If they are open, the show should be hung

and I could really take a look and see.

No online pics but the surf gallery has some

Surf-Knot Art Show at Shelter Surf Shoppe

2008-12-10T15:26:00.000-08:00

This Saturday December 13th at Shelter Surf Shoppe:

- A New Art Exhibition By Tyler Warren

- The Premier of the Tyler Warren Expiriments (a J Smart Film)

- Live Music by the Mattson 2

- Skateboard Demo by Pickle featuring his ant Tyler Moma’s new sidewalk sleds (TnT Skateboaords)

- 6 in the PM.. Always Free…Always Fun…

Shelter is located at 2148 E 4th Street in Long Beach 90814

The Eddie

2008-12-08T09:21:00.000-08:00

You can't say anything that captures what big wave surfing means to surfing / surfers.

Nice photo though. Click on it to get a better view.

Photos and titles from a mass email Quiksilver sent me.

Check it

2008-12-02T06:42:00.000-08:00

The lack of pipeline has slowed my blogging quite a bit but

here is a new link to check out.

The Happy Barracuda

Lots of pictures and travel photos

(Like I would like to think I would take if I traveled)

I won the Sea Huggers Organic tee shirt in a contest they were running!

AaWwHhOo!

Pictures to come once the tee arrives

Seahuggers is "your online source for 100% environmentally friendly surf products"

Cool stuff, check out the Andreini Vaquero 2+1 hand-shaped using sugar-based Ice 9 Blank

I love fall

2008-11-08T20:46:00.000-08:00

It's been good!

Not summer, not winter combo swells everywhere!

If you haven't surfed over to the grass is greener project you may want to now.

TONS of pics

My modem is smoking and I am only half way thru

Bring it on!

Vote

2008-10-31T07:03:00.000-07:00

So now you know who I am going to vote for on Tuesday.

As for the rest of the election I will vote in line with the financial conservative, social liberal, tree huggeryness that make up my political persona.

I won't go into the details on a surf blog.

So what about you, dear reader?

What I urge you to do is not to take my word for the appropriate way to vote.

Register, educate yourself on the issues and then cast your ballot.

Your thoughts, your preferences, your vote.

If we agree ok,

if not that's ok too.

Now some body surfing from Hawaii

Shelter Party Time again!

2008-10-24T06:28:00.000-07:00

It is once again the time of the month that we look forward to most!

It's Shelter Party Time again!

October 25th at 8pm for a very special show featuring visual artist Harry Daily and musical artist Landon Sea.

This event promises to be a very rootsy into into the fall season.

We will:

Enjoy deep visual stimulation (look at rad art)

Marvel over lush and organic sounds (listen to good vibey music)

Refresh ourselves with ubiquitous elixirs (have some drinks)

and… Eat Ice Cream (Yes eat Ice Cream) Got that one etrine?

Be There!!

Split it?

2008-10-20T06:31:00.000-07:00

Perhaps it's the ear plugs I wear religiously.

(All bow down to the plug)

But I never hear anyone calling the left or right anymore.

I also never hear two surfers in position say "Split it?".

Meaning that both surfers would each get to ride something.

Not so much anymore.

Odd since the crowd factor has gone up 1000 percent.

This seems to be a good idea I am just wondering if I missed a vote on the issue or somethin.

Curse you Norbert

2008-10-13T06:28:00.000-07:00

Despite my best effort to feed the hype machine hurricane Norbert didn't pan out as expected.

So here we are, stuck with all too familiar SoCal fall conditions, a decent "wind event" with no swell to speak of.

If I had saved all the gas I have wasted in my youth going to look for waves when there weren't any, I could go look for waves now.

Oh well.

I think I will tie my cat to the dog (so he doesn't blow away this morning) and check it.

Take a look at Kaser's site for some shots of this last weekend.

Check out some shots of the Sacred Craft show over at Surfy Surfy.

Also I must say Adam Wright's Surf blog has been excellent in his coverage of what did and didn't happen with the swell.

Always a good read.

Norbert's revenge

2008-10-09T09:09:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Surfline for the photo

There were those that said that Norbert was a stupid name for a "named storm" in the eastern Pacific.

But some remember Norbert as the smarter of the two brothers in the classic Nickelodeon show "Angry Beavers".

(his middle name is Foster by the way)

So we waited and watched and with the latest info from NOAA (here) it looks like we will get some surf out of this class three huricane.

Check Adam 's socal forecast blogspot for all the latest in surf and weather.

One more thing,if you hear of any storms named either Ren or Stimpy take notice!

Surfin around

2008-10-07T06:24:00.000-07:00

Here are a few links to check out

Stop by head high glassy to check out his latest Simmons influenced boards. Neet stuff.

RT points out in Wwaarrbblleess it has been good around here the last week or so. Beautiful photos.

Also check Daily Bread for to see some of the locals that made the drop to claim the prize.

Well I am back out there.

This Saturday at Shelter

2008-09-26T11:48:00.000-07:00

I wanted to note that the event I mentioned it a couple of weeks ago at Shelter Surf Shop in Long Beach is this weekend.

Graham is doing another film, art show, books, band and refreshments thing

This may be the last one for this summer

Always a good time

A trip down to see the new boards alone is worth the trip!

Be there

In the Hood

2008-09-24T06:30:00.000-07:00

As some of you know I use a hood during the Winter months.

I have one ear 90 percent closed and have had the other one reopened twice.

I regularly use ear plugs but you just can't beat the extra warmth you get from a hood.

Especially if it's windy.

I have been using a light duty O'Neill hood with a heavy duty Rip Curl hood for the really cold days.

I lost the O'Neill hood a few months back so I am looking for a replacement.

I like the Patagonia products I have used in the past so I want to give them a go.

Everyone seems to like their wetsuits but the hood is a different deal.

The question is

"How is good is the hood?"

This is the part of the blog experience where you at home get to play.

Let have some comments about your hood experiences, preferences and modifications.

Looking to hear from you

Fall

2008-09-22T08:38:00.000-07:00

It's finally here.

If there was any doubt

The Autumnal equinox really.

Confused surf conditions, small unless it's large

and windy

Here are some shots from around the yard with a fall theme

Ripening persimmons in the backyard.

Looking forward to some NW swells.

Give me Shelter!

2008-09-18T06:21:00.000-07:00

Graham is doing another film, art show, books, band and refreshments thing

This may be the last one for this summer

Always a good time

A trip down to see the new boards alone is worth the trip!

Be there

Finally

2008-09-12T06:04:00.000-07:00

Finally got in the water yesterday.

First time in forever

It was so long the towel in the back of my car was dry

that long

Finally, some, what do you call it when the wave doesn't break all at once?

Ah yes PEAKS!

They had those other things, where the wave slopes off into infinity

Ah yes SHOULDERS!

So tired I can't lift my arms.

Great post today by RT at WWAARRBBLLEESS

I won't give away the story but surf over there and check it out.

Is it Fall yet?

2008-09-09T06:52:00.000-07:00

While I was waiting for the swell angle to be a little more friendly the wind came up

and hasn't stopped

Nothing makes me want to jump in more than

walled up

blown out

surf

But hope spring eternal

I think I'll go check it

Late AM update ...

Still windy

A glancing blow

2008-09-05T06:08:00.000-07:00

Have you ever walked along a crowded street and lightly brushed against the people walking the other way?

If you have then you know how the latest South swell in hitting SoCal.

Not so much as an "Excuse me".

Kaser did take some good pics of the guys at the Wedge

According to the usual sources this string of swells should last for a few more days so the direction may change a bit.

Hope springs eternal

Just like clock work

2008-09-02T10:33:00.000-07:00

I have always labored under the assumption that someone important hates me.

Now don't misunderstand, I have a wonderful life, but I seems that it never fails that whenever I had to go back to school or work the ocean comes alive and the swells that I had waited for would appear.

But I would be trapped in first period or some useless meeting.

Today is the first day of back to school, no matter where you go, and back to work after the three day weekend for everyone else.

And it's coming up and looking good.

It seems that it wasn't me after all.

August Shelter Party - Goin' Big - Under the Sun

2008-08-28T11:28:00.000-07:00

Shelter Party August 30th: Under The Sun and Goin' Big

Come Join the gang at Shelter Surf Shop on Saturday August 30th at 8pm for a gathering of the tribes!

Film, Art, Music and Literature!

Here's the Lowdown:

Film and Art: Under The Sun by Cyrus Sutton.

Scope the film trailer here:

Literature: Book Signing with Kevin O'Sullivan for his book on the Hayday of Gotcha entitled "Goin' Big"

Music: TBD

Refreshments: Courtesy of The Pike Bar and Grill.

Be There or Be a quadratic shape with four equal sides!!

Yep it's still Tuesday

2008-08-26T09:34:00.000-07:00

Kind of has that June Gloom thing going on.

Cloudy, south wind and small ragged surf.

But this is August and it should be sunny

with no wind

and small ragged surf...

So I am confused.

Meet up with two of the local bloggers at the beach today.

Warm Jet who braved the elements to get some fun ones on a particularly nice Liddle with custom fin.

Also in attendance to record the day for posterity was Kaser

It seems custom fin work is the theme for the day.

Here is a link to RT's site where he talks about his latest fin mods.

Since it's not a surf day for me it is a something else day for me.

And today that something else is baking bread while I do my yoga practice.

YUMMMMMMMM!

Surf Revival

2008-08-22T06:35:00.000-07:00

Any post that has a shot of Pipeline is a good post.

WHO: Lightning Bolt surfboards shaped by Rory Russell
Artwork by Glenn Martin | Dave Dickey | Spencer Reynolds | Heather Ritts | Bigtoe
WHEN: Friday, Aug. 23rd, 2008
7-11 p.m.
WHERE: The Light Galleries
440 E. 17th St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
MEDIA Steven Borts Gallery Director
CONTACT: (714) 642-7899(cell)
thelightgallery@gmail.com

In other news,

Could someone do something about the weather?

I understand highs, lows, heavy marine layers etc but it's mid August and I thought it was going to rain at the beach yesterday!

Oh and if you could send some swell this way that would be great.

RT over at Wwaarrbblleess had a beautiful post the other day about signs of the coming autumn.

He has been on a roll lately.

Alternating between spit-hot-tea-all-over-my-monitor funny and fine art-ist.

If you haven't been over there lately make the trip.

Sport of Kings

2008-08-17T15:43:00.000-07:00

Late summer is an interesting time

Already way too sun burnt

With any luck a lot of good days on the books

Fall surf and weather changes right around the corner

Every year I try to take a few days off

and dust of the long board.

There is something about the setup, the glide, the paddle back out.

I blame Bruce Brown...

Surf Movie tonight!

2008-08-14T06:20:00.000-07:00

Social commentary meets surf movie in tonights screening of "Sliding Liberia" tonight at the Lido theater in Newport Beach.

The show starts at 7:30 tickets are $10.

There will be Q&A after the movie.

That all for now, back to the beach

Prize for Ras

2008-08-12T13:51:00.000-07:00

The following poem is Ras' prize for replying to a recent post.

(Sorry it took so long...)

Sail spread, you're ready
to depart on autumn waters,
to enter a deep, far realm
between realms.

Away from the Eastern Sea
so many years --
today your return
begins in China.

While absent from home,
your hair's turned white;
but at wave's end
blue hills will arise.

Separated by water,
we'll be in each other's thoughts;
but no letters
to distract your quiet life.

This poem is by Chia Tao and was translated by Mike O'Connor.

Visit Ras at his blog kuyah.

Dirt, the Hills, Sliced Bread

2008-07-29T16:29:00.000-07:00

Three things I'm older than!

Yet another complete trip around the sun.

Be that as it may, there's still swell and if post session nasal drainage is any indication, I had a successful go out on the mat.

So things are good.

Sorry about the lack of posting here but I really haven't had anything to say or even comment on.

Ok, the first one to comment "what else is new?" wins a prize.

The Intermost Limits of Pure Fun

2008-07-24T06:39:00.000-07:00

A film by George Greenough

Head on down to Shelter on July 26th at 7pm for live music, refreshments and an outdoor screening of George Greenough’s Classic Film “Innermost Limits of Pure Fun”.

Our friends Ovideo will be performing their own live soundtrack to segments of the film while other segments will be worked out via the film with the original soundtrack by Dennis Dragon and The Farm .

This is hands down one of our favorite surf films of all time and features the likes of Chris Brook, Robert Conneely, Danny Hazard, Russell Hughes, George Greenough, Gary Keys, Terry Keys, Bob McTavish, Dickie Nelson, Ted Spencer, Davide Treloar, and Greg Weaver.

For those unfamiliar with the film, here’s a brief synopsys:

This release is essential watching because it is a cinematic masterwork of the highest magnitude. In it, George Greenough chronicles ground zero of the shortboard revolution as it evolved in 1968. This highly personalized film is the prime instigator’s perspective of the innovations that changed surfing forevermore as they came down. Track the inside out with George in groundbreaking point of view sequences that are utterly unique. Experience remote Australia and hidden California as ridden by Mac T, Ted Spencer, Baddy Treolar, Chris Brock, Gary Keys, Russell Hughes and a brigade of the underground’s best. Revel in the morphic hand hewn artwork of Patty Hennick. Hear the distinctive improvisational soundtrack which was scored on the spot by Dennis Dragon, (before the Surf Punks), his brothers Doug and Daryl, (the Captain before Tennille), and Denny Aaberg, (before Big Wednesday).

Check out Graham's Megatrough site for more details

For those of you who wonder "why don't we do anything EPIC anymore?"
Here's your chance

Tour de Rip Current

2008-07-22T10:50:00.000-07:00

I will admit that I haven't made it down to the pier yet.

The thing runs for a week so I still have time

Usually the final Sunday is the best day anyway

The finals go off in whatever blown out swell is out there

and then the mayhem begins...

To be honest my competition quota is being filled by watching the Tour de France.

A different sort of race and not as straight forward as you might think.

Once I got the just of hang of the three separate races in one race and the whole team thing it gets quite interesting.

I have been enjoying the Tour de Rip Current we have had for the last few days and if the weather maps can be trusted we should have something to ride for the next several days.

(Sorry no pics.

I am doing the blog thing from home via dial up.)

the circus is in town

2008-07-14T12:42:00.000-07:00

I was nursing a sore back earlier this week and so instead of going for a swim I rode along the beach.

The Honda US Open of Surfing presented by O'Neill is coming to town.

The bleachers and misc tower-age were halfway up already.

This year Drew Kampion is being added to the Walk of Fame.

I grew up in HB so I have been to a few contests there.

I was there the year everyone got covered in oil (early 60's)

I was there for all of the riots.

Last year I couldn't even find a parking place.

Surfer's Ear (Exostosis)

2008-07-13T09:51:00.000-07:00

If you are not yet acquainted with some form of ear plug I would suggest you take a look.

Repeated exposure to cold air, water, and wind causes the ear canal walls to grow and in some cases to close off completely.

I have had my left ear drilled twice and the right one is currently more than 90 percent closed.

I case any of you thought my wearing a goofy hat was a fashion statement.

I am just trying to stall having another procedure as long as possible.

If you are looking for a doc or just want to see a video of the procedure go here
I have tried most of the plugs on the market as well as silly putty and the silicon plugs.

It comes down to what fits in your ears the best.

I am currently using a plug like the one above with some of the end cut off so it fits better in my "closed" ear.

BTW the procedure runs around $10,000 minus what your insurance pays

The plugs at Savon are two bucks.

Pray for surf!

semi-regular status

2008-07-07T14:33:00.000-07:00

Back from stay-cation, sort of...

It seems that corporate downsizing at dotcoms is a boon to surfers everywhere.

The high-tech company I was working for was forced "to make painful cutbacks".

That said, today I had my best Tuesday in years in the water.

Not epic waves, but just having a blast pulling in.

I may have to apply for semi-regular status at the local sand bars.

I finally ran into the surf/photog responsible for Daily Bread

Over the fourth my night blooming cereus did its thing.

The flowers start opening at dusk and are dead by midnight.

It's a wonderful life.

Stay-cation

2008-06-27T14:53:00.000-07:00

I am taking a few days off to give the new mat surface a through testing.

I may or may not post depending on how the testing goes.

Feel free to email me.

Here is a koan to work on while I am out.

What do you call Taco Bell Reef when there's no Taco Bell?

Enjoy the week and breath deep.

PArty pArtY pARTy!

2008-06-25T07:17:00.000-07:00

Graham and Kim are hosting another in a series of epic events at the

Shelter Surf Shop

This one includes the premier of "Tales from the Black Van",

Live music from the Growlers

Photography from both Ryan Tatar and Maggie Marsek

Graham has worked out a deal with the Mexican food restaurant up the street.
Get there early and grab some Mex for dinner at Lola’s.
Mention Shelter when you go in and get 10% off your bill!

Ok let us review

New Surf Movie - FREE

Live Music - FREE

Photo Gallery - FREE

Local Mex Food - 10% Discount

All of the above co mingled with the best selection of surfboards
this side of Planet C!

Here are the directions

View Larger Map

Oh it's on SATURDAY night June 28 and starts at 7pm

Back in the water

2008-06-24T08:08:00.000-07:00

Photo by Graham Day

As some of you may have noticed I have been standing up while surfing lately.

No not SUP

just, you know, paddle paddle paddle, stand up, lean over to turn etc.

Not something I am opposed to it's just that I have been having

so much fun on the mat in recent months (years actually)

that I haven't been bringing boards to the beach.

Just my mat and fins.

I needed to resurface the traction material on my mat so I have been stand up surfing lately.

Having a good time too.

But I would also throw on the fins for part of the session too.

Something was missing.

Stand up wasn't intimate enough.

I was having body surfing dreams

So the mats back and this weekend I'm back in the water!

And by back in the water I mean neck deep!

James Sowell total involvement surfing. Photo by Ken McKnight

Uber Fineline

2008-06-23T07:10:00.000-07:00

Ran into Graham and RT in Huntington over the weekend.

I had the great fortune to see the Fineline BeeGee in person.

This board

is insane!

On his site, Brian Hilbers describes the board as "a short speed machine designed to be a stand-up version of the immortal Velo."

The pictures, as they say, don't do it justice, you have to check it out in person.

I don't think I have ever seen a more beautiful set of curves combined into one bladed-out super-flex surfboard.

Summer Solstice

2008-06-20T08:09:00.000-07:00

Depending how you look at it the Summer Solstice is either today or tomorrow.

I'll save you the trip to wiki and just say it is the longest day of the year.

(Yes I know it's more than that)

Here in So Cal it begins the summer season and the tourist hoards descend on the beaches.

When I was in school summer was the deal.

Sun burnt beyond all recognition (my dermatologist still cringes)

Surfing without wetsuits.

Early morning surf.

Midday surf.

Evening glass off surf.

But, as they say, that was then, and this is now.

Despite all the press and the odd perfect New Zealand southy it's not my favorite season here.

Now, I think I like fall best.

But enough of that.

Lets sacrifice a virgin, burn a surfboard in the fire pit and get this party started!

** I should do a full seperate post on this but it's too good to wait!

Check out onixuma .

A blog by a Wibbulator Flex Fish rider!

It's going to be a good day!

Long Beach agrees to study removing breakwater to cleanse beaches

2008-06-19T06:42:00.000-07:00

The following story in the Los Angeles Times this morning regarding a study of the effects of removing parts of the long beach jetty.

Back even before my time but there was quite a bit of surf in that area, before the jetty.

Which is why they put the jetty there in the first place.

Not often we get surf back once its gone.

Hooray for the Surfrider Foundation!

Now if we could just get Killer Dana back.

That would be, ah, killer!

The complete article below.

By Deborah Schoch, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
June 19, 2008

The Long Beach City Council has hired an engineering firm to study the effects of removing or reshaping part of a massive breakwater that shields the city's pollution-plagued beaches from ocean surf.

Surfers and environmentalists are cheering the Tuesday night vote, saying that the World War II-era breakwater prevents waves from cleansing the coastal sands. They have long lobbied city and federal agencies to launch a serious study of tearing down the breakwater's easternmost segment or lowering it so waves can wash over it.

The 2 1/2 -mile segment lies directly offshore from the city's beaches. It was built between 1941 and 1949 to shield ships of the U.S. Navy, which left the city in 1997.

"It was built for the Navy, the Navy left and let's get rid of it," said Robert Palmer, chairman of the Long Beach chapter of the Surfrider Foundation, a national environmental group.

But that's easier said than done. The breakwater is federal property, overseen by the Army Corps of Engineers, which cannot launch its own study without congressional approval, corps spokesman Greg Fuderer said.

Long Beach officials plan to prepare an initial study to help determine if the federal government would back a full-scale feasibility study, which could cost $3 million to $5 million.

The council voted 6 to 2 to hire Moffatt and Nichols Engineers for up to $100,000 to conduct the preliminary study. The Coastal Conservancy will pay half the cost if the corps agrees to review the study when it is complete.

Surf Photographers

2008-06-17T07:14:00.000-07:00

There are two "surf photographers" who I have been meaning to talk about for a while.

But lets talk about photography for a moment.

The art and science of capturing light.

Such a good business card...

If you are trying to market a product then you want the product logo prominently placed etc.

If you are looking to do some interior decorating then you might reject an excellent picture because the dominant colors don't go with your couch.

This is not the type of photography I am talking about today.

These pictures may or may not contain anyone doing something rad.

This is for lack of a better phrase is "art photography" and a certain mood or emotion might be invoked on viewing the shot.

Generally, this means you look at the photo and wish you were there.

This is not an easy thing to do.

I generally go with "the easier something looks the harder it really is..." school of knowing things.

So here is the challenge.

Go try, grab the brownie (that's a camera) and go take some shots.

Now that you know how hard it is to compose and capture the elusive surf shot you are ready to truly appreciate some of the things that go into this type of work.

Ryan Tatar

Two sites to check out here

shakas and single fins is Ryan's blog which includes some of his work while highlighting local events and the work of other artists.

and

www.ryantatar.com
this is his portfolio site

Maggie Marsek

http://www.maggiemarsek.com/

You may remember Maggie from her work documenting the last "anything but three" event.

Her work was recently featured up at the Shelter Surf Shoppe

One more thing

I was fortunate enough to have some of the best work of Ron Stoner delivered to my door on a semi monthly basis during the sixties.

If you haven't checked out Photo/Stoner I suggest you give it a look through.

David Nuuhiwa

2008-06-13T06:58:00.000-07:00

Growing up in Huntington Beach I got to see David Nuuhiwa surf the pier quite a bit.

I came across this Merkel photo the other day.

I'm not sure if it's the pier, Nuuhiwa usually surfed the south side but it has the classic look to it.

You Tube turned up the following Nuuhiwa takes off fin first video.

Judging from the board, his height and his hair this looks early in his surf career.

A classic longboard surfer who made the transition to short boards and got even better.

He has a web site for boards, tee shirts and memorabilia

Fresh Fish

2008-06-10T11:13:00.000-07:00

Summer time and the fishing is easy

Photo from fin maker Daniel at Daniel Fin's site

Rode my fish last weekend so I am on a fresh fish high.

This looks like a nice one.

On the subject of new boards Graham over at Shelter has a whole new batch of Finelines and Liddle hulls for your riding pleasure.

Get them quick because they are just too good last
long

And yes it is bitchen blue board Tuesday!

The tree grows Bananas, Oranges and Beer

2008-06-06T08:55:00.000-07:00

Just too funny, and just in time for video Friday

The second installment of the Mike Black interview is below

If you didn't see the first one here it is

Alex Kopps does a bit of narritive in this and says something about "taking surfing too seriously".

I think that may be the key to why I like the film so much.

It's fun, not too serious and I enjoy the corny "flaws" as much as the polished moments.

Getting a Bike for Summer?

2008-06-03T12:31:00.000-07:00

I have been looking for a new bike for the summer.

Partly because it means I get some more exercise

Partly because it shrinks my carbon footprint

Partly because gas is going for 4 frinking dollars a gallon!

(I remember when my brother and his friends would cash in pop bottles to get enough change (20 to 40 cents) to buy a couple of gallons to go surf Tresles in the afternoons.)

So I am looking at one of these AfricaBikes from Kona Bikes

The folks at Kona are part of a team who developed a bike for AIDS relief workers who needed reliable cheap transport to take them into the remote villages. They are making the AfricaBike model available for public purchase thru their dealers.

The will send one more bike to Africa for every two they sell domestically.

It comes in a one speed or three speed model. Both versions include a basket, rear rack and lock standard. Also comes with thorn proof tires/tubes for those of you who can't keep on the path.

The pricing depends on the source but is seems to fall in the 300 to 350 dollar range depending on the model.

I'm thinking I lash the mat and fins on the back and stuff my wetsuit and towel in the basket.

Those of you without inflatable surfing devices could attach a side mounted surfboard rack and be down the trail in no time!

A good bike at a good price for a great cause!

Any of you have a great two wheeled rig? Let me know!

In the comments section RAS from Ku Yah! mentioned another group that is doing good work via bikes.

Check out Bikes not Bombs

Mike Black part Gnar Gnar

2008-05-29T07:12:00.000-07:00

The next installment of the Mike Black interview is out

If you didn't see the first one here it is

Alex Kopps does a bit of narritive in this and says something about "taking surfing too seriously".

I think that may be the key to why I like the film so much.

It's fun, not too serious and I enjoy the corny "flaws" as much as the polished moments.

Maggie Marsek at Shelter

2008-05-28T08:25:00.000-07:00

Another in a series of art events at Shelter Surf Shop.

Click on the photo above for a better view of the event details.

I really like her work, nice composition, more of her work here

Mike Black interviewed

2008-05-22T07:31:00.000-07:00

Mike Black AKA Gnar Gnar interviewed on High Shred TV

Blast It!

Invasion of Planet C is one of my all time favorites.

I think I will watch it again tonight.

The spring time winds,

(I would call them devil winds but that name is already taken)

has robbed me of my stoke...

Cheers

Out There

2008-05-19T12:46:00.000-07:00

Plenty of new movie releases out there for your dining and dancing pleasure.

Teton Gravity Research has partnered up with the Surfrider Foundation for their new film project OUT THERE.

"Not only does the film capture the incredible progression taking place within the sport of surfing today, it also takes a thought-provoking look into the environmental destruction threatening key surf spots such as Trestles in Southern California, surf in Southern Chile threatened by pulp mills, Teahupoo and its growing popularity, mainland Mexico, North Shore Hawaii near the Turtle Bay development and beyond."

The clips look good and I understand the proceeds are going to the local Surfrider Foundation chapters.

Check the Teton Gravity Research site for tour dates and times.

**
Lido Theatre
Newport Beach, CA

Tuesday, May 20, 2008
SHOWTIME: 7:30pm
Doors 7:00pm

Tickets: $12.00*
Lido Theatre

*All proceeds go directly to the Surfrider Foundation Newport Beach Chapter

**

CA 5/20/2008 NEWPORT BEACH Lido Theatre

CA 5/21/2008 VENICE Air Conditioned Supper Club

CA 5/23/2008 LA JOLLA Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego in La Jolla

CA 5/28/2008 SANTA BARBARA Lobero Theatre

CA 5/30/2008 SAN FRANCISCO Mezzanine

CA 5/31/2008 SANTA CRUZ Rio Theatre

RI 6/12/2008 NEWPORT Jane Pickens Theater

NY 6/13/2008 FARMINGVILLE Sachem High

NJ 6/14/2008 ASBURY PARK The Stone Pony

VA 6/18/2008 VIRGINIA BEACH De Witt's Cottage

FL 6/20/2008 JACKSONVILLE BEACH Ocean Club

FL 6/21/2008 COCOA BEACH Surfside Playhouse

Between the Lines

2008-05-14T14:57:00.000-07:00

A new movie out about the Vietnam War and its effect on surfers

From the website Between the Lines

Between the Lines explores the choice that most draft age surfers faced during the Vietnam War era: either go to war or evade the draft. It was one or the other. Between the Lines delves into the lives of two surfers who choose opposite paths, Pat Farley and Brant Page.

New links

2008-05-06T07:17:00.000-07:00

New links - there is a silly number of links over here --->
and that's not even the half of it. I browse away the hours with
another list that includes the following

http://gothicdolphins.blogspot.com/

"Do you have a fascination with medieval, Victorian and Edwardian history. Do you seem sullen and withdrawn, enjoy writings by authors like Dante, Byron, Tolstoy; German Expressionist silent films; writing music; create self celebratory paintings. Do you REALLY enjoy swimming and body surfing? Then welcome to The Gothic Dolphins."

The above quote ripped right off the site says it all. No names, occasional updates. A preference for hulls. I check it everyday.

http://headhighglassy.blogspot.com/

"... to paraphrase Gertrude Stein, a fish is a fish. The lineage is not difficult to parse out. Sure, surfboard design geeks (myself included) may argue about who was the first to stick a fin here or add a concave there, but the big picture isn't difficult to grasp. To ride a fish is to understand the stoke that could transform you into a parking lot hair-rocker. To run a planer along a rail is to shake hands with Rich Pavel, or Bear Mirandon, or Bob Simmons, or King Kamehameha, or the countless others who have interpreted and reinterpreted one of the most fun things in the world."

Local shaper, if you live "north of the bridge". Writes well and produces many fine boards. He's not just pluging his product, it's more a sharing what's up this week, have a look at this, kind of vibe. What's not to like? If I lived any closer I'd have him make be a board in a flash.

http://pronetobelly.blogspot.com/

"A Blog to all those who refuse to stand up"

Where else are you going to find a link to the UK belly Board Championships? How could I not love this guy?

That's enough for today, get back to work! More to come later...

We scored!

2008-05-05T07:05:00.000-07:00

Not where we were

Everyone who has ever been on a surf trip knows the feeling.

Either you score or you're skunked, with the truth (or reality as we laughingly like to call it) being more in the middle.

On Saturday, I meet up with some guys to mat surf.

So as to not give a way the exact location lets say we were somewhere in the lower 48 states.

Well we scored!

The surf was head high and glassy.

Our crew was fantastic and in good spirits.

The locals were obliging to our courteous intrusion and gracefully accepting of a hand full of stoked maters in their midst.

Two personal highlights I would like to share,

I was having a good time without surfing particularly well and my "best wave" was a nice right that I body surfed after losing my mat.

The high point of the day would have been the oh-my-god-I-locked-my-keys-in-the-car-el-rollo performed in full view of the gang.

A great day indeed!

I hope you all had a good weekend as well.

Mat Blow Up this weekend

2008-05-01T15:41:00.000-07:00

The incredible water color above by the equally incredible John Severson

Mr Smith has changed the coordinates of the ITSM -

I just checked the beach break again. It is not going to be the call. Let's move this party to a real reef!

Seaside reef and its cohorts will have waves and definition.

Inflatable Toy Surf Meet
Saturday, May 3rd.
Early until the wind kills it.
All are welcome. Bring your stoke.

Seaside Reef:

View Larger Map

Exit 5 onto Lomas Santa Fe
Head West (yes, west).
Turn North on PCH/101.
Seaside reef lot is the huge lot just north of Solana Beach. Its official title is South Carlsbad State Beach. If you reach Cardiff reef or the surrounding restaurants (Ki's, Olas, etc...) you've gone too far.
I would suggest gathering towards the south end of the lot.

There are bathrooms but you might have to pay to park $8. If you get there early enough it might be free, I'm not sure. Another option is to turn west onto Solana Vista just south of the lot. There is stairway access to the same stretch via some stairs.

This could be epic!

In the spring a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of fish!

2008-04-28T10:43:00.000-07:00

The smile tells it all - (Here take this and rip it up!)

Photo by Betsy ripped off the shipworm and gribble site

Something like this could make me take a stand up approach!

Hulls del las olas

2008-04-22T09:59:00.000-07:00

Although I spend most of my time surfing on my belly like a reptile I do have an appreciation for the fine surfboards produced by the many craftsmen and artisians in the business.

I discovered this new website Vaqueros Del As Olas over on A hull new world.

Vaqueros del as Olas are Marc Andreini's boards and it will be nice for him to get the exposure and sales he deserves.

Kind of a polished and professional looking site, for surfers, (that always makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up) and it offers clothes (tee shirts are where the money is) as well as boards (coming soon).

The other names I see associated with the project (KP and Miller) make me think it's the real deal.

Jdub over at JDUBsingles has a full quiver of Marc's boards and reports that dispite the popular myth that "they only work in perfect lined up point waves" that not only do they work very well in the local beach breaks but that Mr. Andreini is a class act and a pleasure to do business with.

1966 Duke Invitational and more...

2008-04-22T08:09:00.000-07:00

A U-Tube find I came across while browsing the september project blog

The surfers, the boards, the judges all worth a look

Bruce Brown interviews Mickey Dora!

That one led to this one,

Maynard G. Krebs or Graham Day? Hey I'm just saying...

Thinking of TwinFin

A photographic exhibition by Bill Livingston at Shelter Surf Shop beginning April 26th ( that is Saturday for those of you who are calendar challenged)

Finally here is some Dora surfing Malibu backed by the musical stylings of the Supertones

Earth Day 2008

2008-04-22T06:48:00.000-07:00

The mountains, rivers, earth, grasses, trees, and forests are always emanating a subtle, precious light, day and night, always emanating a subtle, precious sound, demonstrating and expounding to all people the unsurpassed ultimate truth.

Yuan-sou

VINTAGE SURFING at WAIKIKI 1940's

2008-04-18T07:30:00.000-07:00

This one is great!

The narration is classic.

Note the lack of development on Diamond Head (behind the surfers)

When they talk about the good old days, this is it

Check the boards!

Mostly "kook boxes" with a solid bolsa in the mix as well.

Reminds me of Huntington...

fins not flippers

2008-04-11T12:24:00.000-07:00

When we look at surfboards we generally think of the shaper and the the choices he or she made when shaping the blank. Length, width, outline, rail shape, rocker, concaves etc. These are all choices that shapers make which certainly effect the riding characteristics of the finished board. But there is more to it than that.

A show of hands please, how many of you unglassed, unfined blanks?
I thought so.

I like to think of it as a good shaper making a prototype and the glasers/sanders making a functional surfboard that you can take out and surf. I would like to spend some time ranting on the fact that glassers and sanders can "make" a marginal shape great and conversely ruin a well shaped blank.

But it's already Friday afternoon and I don't have time. (But I will reserve the option to revisit the topic later).

Today I am just going to tell you to to visit two of the people who make some of the most beautiful fins I have ever seen!

John Cherry Woodcraft and Daniel's Fins

John Cherry, most of you know as a consummate wood artist.

Daniel has been finning and foiling for quite a while as well. The fins on his web blog make me want to get a new board just to have something to put some of his fins on...

Hey, without these guys your boards would just go sideways!

PS - Did you see this post by Kaser on Daily Bread? The guy scores local secret spot Trestles all to himself! Just amazing!

(I am still open to the possibility that he used his considerable Photo Shop skills to airbrush the normal crowds out of the picture.)

PPS - I my rush to get out the door into the weekend I omitted 101 fins from the list above. Check the link, plenty of good stuff there including a variety of bamboo fins for your bonzering pleasure!

What's SUP?

2008-04-07T08:09:00.000-07:00

I have mentioned in earlier posts that I live and surf in what has to be one of the most crowded places to surf on the planet. While I am the only matter for miles I see every other surfing device known to man or beast on a regular basis.

I see three or four Stand Up Paddlers (SUP) at my regular winter break every weekend.

I must say I don't see the issue some people have with it.

Guys on long boards getting their(?) share of the outside set waves. While this is probably a shock to the normal long board crew. This has been the regular deal for the last 10 to 15 years if you regularly ride a short board. So now you long boarders (is 9'6" the new mid length?) know what it's like to sit outside and have someone take all the "good waves" because they are already up and riding.
Get used to it.

I don't really see the issue. No one calls me in the morning and tells me what to ride. I don't call anyone else. I view it as a personal decision. Ride what you want.

When I see the SUP guys out on a peak that where I paddle out. Follow me for a minute on this one. First a crew of SUPsters on a peak tend to thin things out a little. And they also seem to prefer the larger set waves. OK so I'm surfing leftovers. I don't have a problem with it. Also I sit low in the water so I watch the body language of the SUP guys to tell me when sets are coming. I can sit inside (I prefer late takeoffs) and not have to exert as much energy on take off. Lastly, as you would expect, the skill level varies and if you haven't had the pleasure a 12 foot board takes some getting use to. So this leaves me sitting slightly inside taking waves the SUP guys pass on or crash on. Cowabunga. Oh and I have to admit that I have seen quite a few waves being ridden very well by the local crew.

While a SUP may not be the next add to my personal quiver I certainly don't begrudge anyone from expanding their surfing experience.

I still love surf shops

2008-04-03T07:53:00.000-07:00

I believe I mentioned in a previous post that I left the bat cave and made it to the grand reopening of the Shelter shop in Long Beach.

I had a great time even though I didn't stay long enough for the party to really get rolling. (One of these days I will drink enough coffee to stay up for the after party) For example while I was there, there was still beer, the police hadn't showed up, nothing was broken, there weren't any drunken fist fights, and carloads of drunken people no one knew hadn't showed up ... so the party, obviously hadn't even begun.

But one of the things I did get to see was a great selection of surfboards.

Now I know I have mentioned this in previous posts but even though I live a stones throw from the epicenter of the American surf industry it still had to find anything but 6'2" thrusters and 9'6" long boards in the shops. Yea I know clothes are where the money is but still.

Even though I have a definite preference for the limp and partially inflated surf craft I still enjoy musing about the relative merits of the resin encrusted boards most people ride.

So here I am at Shelter checking the boards and come to the hull section (yes they have a Hull section!) and I see not one but, two mind you two, fresh Klaus Jones hulls!

Some of you may not know about Mister Jones and there are relatively few of his boards out there. I understand that like Mr. Liddle he likes to shape then glass his boards himself then provide a tuned fin he created. Can you say control all the variables? These guys can.

So since I have reviewed my finances (counted all the change under my couch cushions) and found that there is no way I can afford this board I am going to put the word out to you dear reader.

Check it out

Klaus Jones hulls are the hully-ist!

Matt Beard - Pure Joy

2008-03-26T12:17:00.000-07:00

I was enjoying the artist stylings over at Beetlejuice's site Nebulous Continuum and found this very nice little movie , audio / visual composition whatever-you-want-you-call-it-is-fine-with-me but I thought it was great.

After viewing it (twice) I was intrigued enough to try and figure out who is Matt Beard?

His art site is a showcase for the Plein Air work as well as his other endeavors.

Well worth the trip and the time abusing your corporate internet use policy.

Shelter Surf Shop Grand Re-Opening

2008-03-25T09:33:00.000-07:00

The New Shelter Surf Shop is now open!!

Stop by and say hola!!

They are now open 7 days a week from 11am to 6pm.

SHELTER GRAND RE-OPENING PARTY MARCH 29th at 6:00 PM

March 29th marks the birth date of surfboard design pioneer Bob Simmons. Legend has it that Long Beach was one of the first places Simmons experienced the glide on his sacred ride..

Featuring VISUAL STIMULATION via the works of ESTEBAN BOJORQUEZ!!

Bojorquez is equal portions of early early Spanish settler, aboriginal Californian, modern Malibu master, surfboard designer, and contemporary artiste.

Open service in worship of the Sacred Ride!!

Hymns as conducted by Neil Harrison

Refreshments will be served!

Their new address is 2148 E 4th St In Long Beach, 90814
(On 4th between Cherry and Junipero)

They also have a new phone number which is 562-342-4001

Online surfshop at Shelter Surf Shop

Jock and Gerry at Patagonia Cardiff

2008-03-19T08:42:00.000-07:00

The fine folks at Patagonia invited Jock Sutherland and Gerry Lopez to come and talk story at the Cardiff store.

I was at the Cardiff Patagonia store over the weekend (AB3 ya know) and they have a new Neumatic surf mat in the store! The guys at the store were mat great and ride mats as well!!

Here is part three of a series

Jock and Gerry are two surfers to have the "Mister Pipeline" title. Butch Van Artsdalen being the third or the first depending on how you look at it. Side note Jock and Butch both famous for switching stance while riding big Hawaiian surf.

Anything but Three

2008-03-18T08:27:00.000-07:00

There is a gathering of the tribes this Saturday for the Anything but Three Alternative Surfboard Event.

Full descriptions at Anything But Three

While I was there I poached a very nice little video of RM riding assorted alternative craft quite well.

WHEN: Sat March 22, 08

WHAT: "Anything But Three" Alternative Surfboard Event

WHERE: Cardiff Reef, Cardiff-by-the-Sea, North San Diego County California

WHY: The AB3 is a gathering of alternative board riders and craftsman. Think of it as a hot rod show where you get to take the cars around the block for a spin.

I can't think of anywhere I'd rather be.

Whether I go, is of course, another matter.

Musica Surfica

2008-03-17T08:39:00.000-07:00

Mick put a clip on his blog site safe to sea of his upcoming video Musica Surfica.

Looks like a beautiful bit of work, can't wait to see and hear it all.

The opening shots of Derek Hynd's riding a fin less board are awesome.

No shots of Warren on his mat in the clip but I beleive there will be some in the full length movie.

New Board

2008-03-10T09:16:00.000-07:00

If I were to run out and get a new board, I would be quite tempted to get one of these from this gentleman. He seems to have a way with them.

Of course there are several great hull and modified hull a-list shapers.

Liddle, Klaus Jones, Brian Hilbers, Spence, and Paul Gross all leap to mind and I am sure I am not mentioning several great ones.

But I have been using this as my desktop image lately and there is something that just screams to me about this shaped blank "take me to moonlight for glass work, put in a long adjustable box, grab four or five flex fins, find some surf and step on it!"

I won't of course, I'll grab my mat and have a blast on that.

and I do need to talk to someone about my desktop pictures talking to me...

This just in .... I forgot its video Friday

Here is a video I hadn't seen before

So I am thinking final something of Alex not surfing a long board at Blackies,
(Something he does quite well by the way) when the scene shifts to Alex, at Blackies, on a long board.

Is that I quick shot of Kaiser in the foreground ? Around 50 seconds in.

Long boards to short boards

2008-03-04T14:29:00.000-08:00

Every wonder why?

What is Greenough up to NOW?

Another great article on my favorite "alternate surf craft" from over at AllAboutSurf from Ken McKnight entitled Matafesto - The Delicate Wind

By the way if you haven't been over to Phoresia lately now would be a good time.

Switch Stance

2008-03-04T06:39:00.000-08:00

Not to be confused with Switch Foot.

Switching stance is another thing we lost when "leashes ruined surfing".

Take a moment, look over to your left now look over to your right.

Either you just did the time warp dance or you did everything you need to switch your stance the next time you go out.

Here is an excellant example by Butch Van Artsdalen .

So next time you go out, give it a try.

Musica Surfica Review

2008-03-04T06:30:00.000-08:00

So Six Feet and Perfect lied a little about closing the blog down.

I certainly can't fault him for that.

Maybe there's something in the water.

But more importantly he came back to review a copy of Musica Surfica he got from Mick over at Safe To Sea.

Drop every thing and head over there for a read. I am sure it will be on all your Christmas lists.

Micks blog is always worth a read as well if it not on your daily list.

It's great to be back in the water

2008-03-03T11:30:00.000-08:00

Finally got back in the water last weekend.

It had been a while and it felt great.

I had been sick I had to take some time away to recover.

Since I had been in the water last it had warmed up a bit (cold winter this one)

To my delight there was some south swell in the water to cross up the normal north west we get this time of year.

Daily Bread has some great pics of a local extremely secret spot.

Good stuff, if you haven't been there yet this morning it's worth the trip.

It's great to be back in the water

New Blog

2008-02-29T11:41:00.000-08:00

The other blog is 23breaths. That one will be more focused on the mat, which leaves this blog to comment on more mainstream surf topics. Although mainstream for me means fish, hulls and bonzers.

The queen of the coast

2008-02-27T14:44:00.000-08:00

There were waves last weekend.

I mention that because some of my readers, amazingly enough, are not from around the socal area.

I copied this picture of a little know spot up the coast from the niceness blog

The original photo has beautiful detail, spring flowers growing on the point. It been my desktop all week.

I have never had the pleasure of surfing there which is as good an indicator as anything that I am completely out of my mind.

I hope to get back in the water this weekend after several weeks recovering from the flu that is going around.

I hope you are all doing well.

Enjoy

light this morning

2008-02-27T06:39:00.000-08:00

I get in early. So I get up early.

The wee hours of the morning.

If you have kids, the wee wee hours of the morning.

But the thing is, it was light this morning.

As the world turns and tilts...

Spring is almost upon us in the northern hemisphere

Spring extends from the vernal equinox (March 20) to the June solstice (June 21)

I can't wait.

Regarding the blog, it's a long and sordid story requiring more than one ale...

The result being I may have more than one site in the future.

One to discuss my interests in stand up boarding and to rally for and against the commercial interests involved in "the sport".

Another to let the muse (and ale) run free and discuss the mat.

'cause its all about the mat.

Thank you for your interest and patience.

An ending and New Beginnings

2008-02-26T15:33:00.000-08:00

I have intentionally deleted all the old content from this blog.

I am working on either a new blog (well there is really already a new one)

and / or will be taking this little beauty either in a new direction or into the ground.

If you care, would like to comment or would like to have your input included, let me know.

frequent and

Tee Shirts

Another board from the rafters post

Boards from the rafters

23 Breaths!

What for dinner?

Raisin bran muffins

Mushroom Spinich Quiche

Pizza Night

Daily Bread

Almond Surfboards and Designs

Enjoy the links

Azzing the Lass

Displacement

It has been one of those years

A rare clip

Malibu part deux

Velo

Hopeful Hearts Club

Bible of the Sport

Ether Daily

The Cold

Davy Graham - Cry Me A River

Seasoned Greetings

Wolfgang Bloch at Surf Gallery in Laguna Beach

Surf-Knot Art Show at Shelter Surf Shoppe

The Eddie

Check it

I love fall

Vote

Shelter Party Time again!

Split it?

Curse you Norbert

Norbert's revenge

Surfin around

More new Blog links

This Saturday at Shelter

In the Hood

Fall

Give me Shelter!

Finally

Is it Fall yet?

A glancing blow

Just like clock work

August Shelter Party - Goin' Big - Under the Sun

Yep it's still Tuesday

Surf Revival

Sport of Kings

Surf Movie tonight!

Prize for Ras

Dirt, the Hills, Sliced Bread

The Intermost Limits of Pure Fun

Tour de Rip Current

the circus is in town

Surfer's Ear (Exostosis)

semi-regular status

Stay-cation

PArty pArtY pARTy!

Back in the water

Uber Fineline

Summer Solstice

Long Beach agrees to study removing breakwater to cleanse beaches

Surf Photographers

David Nuuhiwa

Fresh Fish

The tree grows Bananas, Oranges and Beer

Getting a Bike for Summer?

Mike Black part Gnar Gnar

Maggie Marsek at Shelter

Mike Black interviewed

Out There

Between the Lines

New links

We scored!

Mat Blow Up this weekend

In the spring a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of fish!

Hulls del las olas

1966 Duke Invitational and more...

Earth Day 2008

VINTAGE SURFING at WAIKIKI 1940's